Saturday 13 June
Breakfast 8am for 9am briefing (10 in the group), then left 9:30 for city tour. Cathedral and statue of King Vaktang just down the road from the hotel – views of a lot of Tbilisi. Mixture of old and (very) modern (Italian designed footbridge over the river, ‘mushroom building’). River running fast and very muddy. Passed hammam (still in operation) and mosque. Walked through old bazaar area (now renovated and very smart looking). Traffic horrendous, crossing road very difficult. Visited old Armenian church (plenty of trip hazards inside, including grave stones set in the floor with little fences round them). Saw clock strike midday, and various puppets come out to perform. Picked up by bus, driven to National Museum, tour of Treasury exhibition with local guide. Lots of gold artefacts (reminiscent of Vergina), more recent ones ( 1-3 century AD) looked much poorer quality. Back to hotel to rest!
Sunday 15 June
Big storm overnight – torrential rain, sheet lightening and some thunder. Flash flooding in Tbilisi. Also damage to the embankment of the river, and some animals escaped from the zoo. Traffic very heavy leaving the city (left hotel 9am). Drove to Mtskheta, visited Jvari church on a hill overlooking the town. Lots of people around for Sunday service. Visited Armaztsikhe-Bagineti archaelogical site – remains of bath house, and wine store (amphora embedded in the floor). Went on to the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral in a walled compound. Mini-fresco’d tower in the Cathedral, under which Christ’s robe is said to be buried. Fragment of the True Cross framed in an icon. Had lunch in a cafe near the Cathedral – huge plateful of lobani – cheese pie filled with beans.
Carried on along the Georgian Military Highway. Stopped briefly by the Zhinvali reservoir, carried on to Ananuri Church by the reservoir. Beautiful stone carvings on the outside of the church (and a couple of lizards scuttling about), small group of children singing rather beautifully.
Passed through Gudari ski resort (little evidence of tows!), stopping at various viewpoints and the ‘Russian-Georgian Friendship Monument’ not viewed kindly by Georgians since 2008! Lots of snow on the hills, spectacular views and appalling road surface (large stretches with no tarmac!). Reached Kazbegi about 6pm, staying in the Ecology Institute (Ilia State University Institute of Alpine Ecology). Buffet dinner – chicken stew, plus noodles/pasta.
Monday 15 June
Left hotel 9am, drove down into the village square where we left the bus and started walking up to the Gergeti Trinity Church (just over 2100m up). Church visible from the village, looming at the top of a very steep hill. Little paths through the village, then joined main track up to the church. Passed by lots of vehicles (negotiating the rutted, stony, potholed track very gingerly), which stirred up lots of dust. Track wound up throught the trees, pleasant walking (total about 5km). Reached the top, stunning scenery, surrounded by mountains, including Mt Kazbegi, where Prometheus was chained to await the arrival of the vulture to eat his liver. Visited church (14th century), adjacent bell tower. Skirts and scarves enforced for women! The remains of a cablecar installed by the Soviets in the 1970s are visible just below the church – this was apparently destroyed by locals who disapproved of the church becoming a tourist attraction (though possibly the local taxi drivers were involved!). Walked back down (had now clouded over somewhat), passing wildflowers (harebell-like flowers at the top). Saw a red squirrel and a large bird of prey (eagle?). Paused to eat picnic lunch.
Brief coffee stop in the village (pancakes with chocolate and banana for Ian) then back in the bus for a short (15 min) drive to Gveleti. Walked through gorge (wonderful wildflowers) along track (passed Soviet pioneer campsite), then crossed a footbridge and carried on along a path. Became steeper and more scrambly near the waterfall. Very wet (spray) by the waterfall. Joined by a number of other tourist groups at the falls. Walked back down to the bus (saw some eagles on the way down), stopped back in the village for wine/beer! Back at the hotel before 5pm. Fish and chips for dinner.
Tuesday 16 June
8am breakfast, 9am departure in 2 4x4s. Drove down the Military Highway, turned off up the Sno valley. Stopped in Sno village – remains of a watchtower. Very beautiful layered drystone walling in the village. Birthplace of the current Orthodox Patriarch, new theological centre being constructed.
Drove on up the valley (road lost its surface and became progressively more potholed). Long drive up the valley (passing a couple of other small villages) to Juta. Stopped here and started following a path up towards Mt Chaukhi. Climbed very steeply out of the village, but then the gradient eased off and we were walking through alpine meadows, covered in wild flowers – forget-me-not, buttercup, cowslip, orchids, fritillairies. Saw masses of caterpilars all entangled together.
Had to cross a couple of areas of compacted (and rather dirty) snow – not so easy to kick steps. Rhododendron ibericum visible on the other side of the valley, also some springs fountaining out of the hillside. Crossed a stream on stepping stones (just below where it waterfalled through a small gorge). Saw a couple of frogs by the path.
Had lunch just above the waterfall, good views of Mt Chauki and its vast terminal (?) moraine. Valley we’d walked up looked more U-shaped than the others we’d seen. Group of people who had come up the valley on horesback picnicing on the opposite side of the river.
Walked back down after lunch (few spots of rain on the way down); stopped at the campsite/cafe above the village for mountain herb tea. Walked back to the village and drove back down the valley. Back to the hotel at 5ish.
Dinner mashed potato and breaded chicken, borscht and lobiani or imareti katchapuri.
Wednesday 17 June
Breakfast at 8am, left at 9, headed South down the Military Highway. Many Northbound trucks stopped at the side of the road (1-2km worth) – police seemed to be checking their papers. This caused some interesting overtaking manoevres (eg when we took to the ‘hard shoulder/grass verge’ to undertake a lorry, then had to cut in front of it to avoid something parked on the hard shoulder (Georgian Military Highway one of the ten most dangerous roads in the world). Trucks Georgian, Russian, Armenian, Turkish mostly.
Turned off at the village of Kobi, bumped up a track towards Okrokana village. Now mostly deserted, was inhabited by Ossetians till the civil war in the 1990s. Border with South Ossetia up the next valley and over the mountain.
Followed the track up the Truso Gorge (Terck river). Strange layered rocks by the village with holes (lava tubes?) in them. Very dramatic geology in the gorge, basalt columns one side, very friable shale the other. Passed a spring bubbling out of the opposite bank (orange – iron), smell of hydrogen sulphide in the air.
At the end of the gorge, river bent to the left and the gorge opened out into meadows. More springs – white travertine (calcium carbonate) deposits. Could see it starting to crystalise around grass and other plants. Spring water slightly effervescent. Unable to complete the walk, as a river flowing down from the mountain was too deep and fast to ford. Stopped for lunch, then headed back down the gorge. Passed by a large herd of cows, with huge cattle dogs with cropped ears (to give them an advantage in a fight with wolves).
Back on the bus, back down the Highway to Gudari and Hotel Gudari Hut. Went for little walk to a bend in the road for view of the mountains. Lots of purple orchids, yellow butterflies.
Had pre-dinner drink (not a vast choice – out of most things – pear lemonade). Buffet dinner – chicken stew with couscous (or possibly buckwheat – hard to tell).
Thursday 18 June
Breakfast 8am, 9am departure. Drove out of the mountains and towards central Georgia. Passed ‘instant village’ created for the refugees from South Ossetia. Drove through Gori to Uplistsikhe (this is a major fruit growing area). Cave city carved into the side of a hill – in sandstone. Approx 3500 years old (and inhabited till 19th century). Some buildings now partially collapsed. Some large lizards scuttling about. Had very brief look at the museum. Very hot now at much lower altitude.
Drove back to centre of Gori, went to cafe for very good lunch (khinkali, bean stew). No Coca-cola – Stalin’s Revenge? Then visited Stalin Museum – project started by Beria before Stalin’s death, but not opened till 1957 (after Stalin’s denunciation by Khruschev). Stalin’s boyhood home (now enclosed by columns and roof) in the grounds, also the railway carriage he used to traval in (eg to Tehran, Yalta etc). Carriage comfortable, but not too plush. Museum last revised in late 1970s, so still shows Stalin as Soviet hero rather than brutal dictator. Photos of family and colleagues. Also (somewhat tacky) gifts presented to Stalin for his 70th birthday.
Then had 3 hour drive to Kutaisi (second largest city in Georgia). Big industrial centre in Soviet era – lots of semi-derelict looking factories. More examples of extreme driving en-route.
Hotel above the town (view of the river, also ferris wheel just across a ravine). Buffet dinner, huge spread laid out for us – salad, coleslaw, cold chicken, beetroot. Also potato and leek soup and chicken cooked in walnut sauce.
Friday 19 June
8am breakfast, 9am departure. Quick photostop at fountain in the town centre, then on to Gelati Monastery (30 mins from Kutaisi). Founded in 12th century by King David the Builder, includes an academy as well as the church. Church covered in frescos, and a mosaic of the Virgin and Child (1 million tessarae) behind the altar. Another building included half a gate from Ganja (the other half was melted down for metal to fight the Mongols) and King David’s grave (where everyone would tread on it). Very hot.
Drove on for a couple of hours to Zugdidi, visited the Dadiani (former rulers of Samegrelo/Mingrelia) Palace Museum. Full of 19th century paintings of Georgia and the Crimean War. Moved on the restaurant ‘The Host’ for lunch – bean stew, salad, cornbread – also beef soup containing half a cow. Drove on to Svaneti, started ascending into the mountains – very beautiful, very dramatic scenery. Lots of free range animals on the road, cows and pigs mostly. Stopped to stretch legs where two rivers joined – visible dividing line where silty water met clear.
Reached Becho village around 6:30pm. Family-run guesthouse (currently being extended). Huge meal provided, soup to start (vegetable – but quite spicy), then roast chicken, fish, coleslaw, beetroot, aubergine and mushroom, veal, chicken livers, bread…..twelve of us failed to make much of a dent in the mounds of food. Pleasantly cool overnight temperatures.
Saturday 20 June
8am breakfast (more mountains of food – and excellent yoghurt and honey). 9am minibus to the top of the village, then started walking along a track, levelish through grassy meadows, covered in wildflowers, number of butterflies around, including a swallowtail). Crossed various streams (some more easily than others!) terrain became more wooded.Lots of scented azaleas growing beside the trail. Started going uphill, views became more and more spectacular. Waterfalls visible at the end of the valley. Passed by couple (Russian?) with very hot furry dog, walking very fast – the dog seemed to prefer our pace!
Path narrowed, became rockier and steeper. Crossed river on a somewhat ramshackle log bridge, and reached a military checkpoint (the area is very close to a pass across the mountains into Russia). Path climbed (steep and rocky) through trees, then opened out – incredible views. Crossed a couple of snowbanks and headed towards the base of the waterfall. Lots of wildflowers (including primroses), picniced on a bank covered with flowers and with incredible views.
Then headed back down – some horses parked across the path at the checkpoint, and a few more hikers heading up. Recrossed the various rivers (time spent shifting stepping stones for one), then back to bus and return to guesthouse. Brief stop for tea/coffee (and delicious smell of roasting chicken), then headed to Mestia. Photostop en route for the many medieval towers of Mestia. Pleasant guesthouse in Mestia (down side alley), few rolls of thunder before dinner, no real rain. Another huge spread for dinner, including preserved peaches for dessert. Scotland vs Georgia backgammon tournament after dinner – Scotland won!
Sunday 21 June
Noisy night – dogs barking, people partying – but slept through thunderstorm. Breakfast 8am – omelette, pastries, rather good scone-type buns. Left 9am to drive up to Lakhiri village (30 mins beyond Mestia). Walked up through the village (views down to various towers) then contoured around the hill (lots of flies making a nuisance of themselves). Fetched up by large reed-filled pond, paused to admire the view.
Carried on past meadows covered in wonderful wild flowers, then dropped down a very steep and slippery path, coming out on alpine-type meadows above Mestia (lots of towers visible). Good views of Chalaabi glacier. Cloud and rain further down the valley (some thunder and the odd flash of lightening). We felt some spots of rain, but the storm moved away, further down the valley. Came out on a track above the local air strip (!), paused here for lunch (passed by Swiss mountain bikers), then continued down to Mestia.
Stopped at the Svaneti Museum (modern building, beautifully airconditioned), and looked at the exhibits (admission 5 lari). Large selection of coins, showing international trading links of the area. Lots of icons (especially of St George, mostly showing him killing the Roman Emperor Diocletian instead of a dragon). Very old books, also local writing on wood. Beautifully carved chairs, selection of local weaponry. Also old photos of the area (c. 1890) – not many changes in the landscape.
Walked to the town (village?) centre – new complex not yet in use (and looking slightly the worse for wear), with large statue of Queen Tamar. Stopped at a cafe for drinks – virulent green drink proved to be tarragon lemonade. Walked back to guesthouse.
Dinner including garlic chicken (delicious), caesar salad and watermelon for dessert. Another Scotland vs Georgia backgammon tournament – to Georgia this time. Went for short stroll back to main square to see illuminated watchtowers.
Monday 22 June
Cake and pizza for breakfast (8am), 9am departure. Drove up the Mestia valley past the airstrip, then continued walking up the track – wild strawberries, yellow hollyhock/foxglove like plants (verbascum). Crossed the river on rusted and somewhat shoogly bridge, continued up the valley (more steeply) on a path, in places very rocky (moraine). Cool blasts of air when we met the river. Walking mostly through trees, so not much of a view, but line visible high up on the side of the valley where the glacier used to be (shrinking rapidly). Emerged from trees onto more rocky ground, with spectacular views of Chalaadi Glacier. Lots of cairns (built by tourists) at the end point of the path – and a chilly breeze.
Returned back down the path, pausing for lunch just after the bridge. Lots of horses tethered by the bridge (including mares with foals, and a roan unbothered by the saddle being under his belly).
Walked back down the track (very hot and humid), number of butterflies visible (small tortoiseshell, red admiral, meadow brown, golden yellow coloured one). Back on the bus, drove back to town and stopped briefly at the cafe for refreshments. Then headed up to the Mestia ski area (8km outside town) for a trip on the (new looking, four seater) chairlift. Spectacular views both from the chair and from the top (though difficult to see the view without trees and/or ski paraphenalia in the way). Lots of white rhodedendrons, lots of wildflowers. Gorgeous set of glades walking along the ridge away from the lift and cafe.
Caught the chair back down again and drove back to the hotel. Very nice veal stew (with sour plums) and tiramsu for dessert. Went for walk round town in the dark to see the towers illuminated. One or two not floodlit. Clouds gathering, some flashes of lightening. Saw a firefly on the way home. Thunder, lightening and rainstorms overnight.
Tuesday 23 June
Earlier start (7:40 for 8:40) thrown into confusion when we discovered (owing to the size of the vehicles that turned up) that we could only take overnight bags to Ushguli – much hasty repacking! Pancakes with sour cream for breakfast.
Loaded into 2 4WD for journey to Ushguli (46 km). Took over 3 hours (including 3 10 minute photostops) – road very rough and potholed. Views of other villages with towers, lots of wildflowers, waterfalls.
Reached Ushguli – small ramshackle village, lots of towers of different designs (7-12th century). Dumped bags in hotel, collected two local guides and set off up the hill. Passed through a number of zones of different wild flowers, including rhodedendrons, very dark fritillaires, bilberries and giant gentians (not yet in flower, look like hostas). Path quite steep most of the way up, last section had no path, soil quite loose and unconsolidated, hard going. View from the top absolutely stunning (approx 3000m – varying opinions on the height). Steeply back down to the village and our guesthouse. Managed seven of us through one shower in just over an hour! Good dinner, kiwi fruit puree and citrus relish. Also meatballs, meat pastries and excellent vegetable soup to start. Impressive dining room – imitation tower fireplace.
Wednesday 24 June
Village woke up pretty early (before 6), so we got up early(ish) too and went for a walk around the village (very carefully – lots of cows being driven about). Breakfast (excellent yoghurt – but no honey) at 8, left at 9am for a walk up the valley.
First incident occurred shortly after leaving the village, when trying to pass a herd of cows – one was wedged upside down on the bank (suspect due to pursuing bulls – who promptly squashed the poor heifer as soon as she was upright). Difficult to get past the bulls – they weren’t interested in us, but were single-mindedly pursuing the cow.
Next crossed a snowbank, then a level path – till it reached a fast flowing river. Eventual decision was to ford it (boots and socks off) – very cold and fast flowing. Path was fairly easy from here, plenty more streams to cross, but all jumpable or with stepping stones. Lots of wildflowers, more orchids, forget-me-not, buttercups. Also wonderful smelling catkins on willow trees.
Turned back before reaching the foot of the glacier (running out of time to return to the village and drive back to Mestia). Forded the river again (further down – narrower, but deeper – and still very cold). No cows to brave this time.
Had a quick look round the church on returning to the village – very old, very small with ancient frescos on the ceiling. Also a (modern) gold panning fleece in the entrance.
Drove back to Mestia (only one stop – to investigate a tower – 1 lari admission. Very scary, shaky ladders).
Moved to new guesthouse (slightly further out of town). Very pleasant (quieter). Good dinner including very nice veal stew. Thunderstorm started just after bedtime.
Thursday 25 June
8am breakfast (yoghurt with honey), 9am departure from Svaneti. Sunny morning in Mestia, but became cloudy and overcast as we left the mountains, then started drizzling. Stopped in Zugdidi to visit the farmer’s market – lots of fresh herbs, walnuts, cheeses, spices, tobacco. Fed 1 litre of beer by local who unfortunately didn’t speak much English. Headed out of town, and stopped at a (makeshift) picnic area to eat lunch.
Headed on to Tskaltubo (old Soviet spa resort – very run down, hotels now used for refugees from Ossetia and Abkhazia) and the Prometheus Cave – large cave (approx 20km – about 1400m open to the public). Very impressive stalactites and stalagmites. Coloured by clay (orange), calcium (white) and manganese (black). Drove on to Kutaisi and previous hotel (still drizzling).
Friday 26 June
Still drizzling – drove up to Bagrati Cathedral (just round the corner from the hotel). Was destroyed by the Turks, but has now been restored. Contains relics (bones, skulls) from various saints. Bus back to Tbilisi – stopped in the mountains for sweet bread (which is only made in that area), and again at a motorway service station outside Gori for lunch (very clean, very quiet – and toilets with cellophane cover on the seat, and a button to move it).
Arrived Hotel Oriental in Tbilisi (very smart). Weather improved – sunny and hot. Drove out to dinner at local restaurant – saw marks of the flash floods on the underpasses. Restaurant ‘traditionally’ furnished, variety of food – shashlik, beans in a pot, salad etc. Torrential shower of rain during dinner, but fortunately no more floods. Back to the hotel c 9:30, most people leaving for the airport in the early morning.
Saturday 27 June
Left hotel 1:45 am for the airport, roads quiet but airport busy. Flight on time back to Istanbul, huge (but relatively fast moving) queues for security (necessary into Western Europe, not Asia!). On time back into Edinburgh, tram to Edinburgh Park, bus to Linlithgow, train to Stirling.
